Monday, January 24, 2011

Hotpoint Aquarius FDW60 dishwasher controller board

Some information on the Hotpoint Aquarius FDW60 dishwasher controller board for anyone interested in DIY repairs. The following was gleaned from an evening of poking around. I'm not certain about anything here, but hopefully it might be of use to someone else. If you have any feedback please post a comment at the end of this posting.

Warning: if the dishwasher power switch is on this board will have live mains (230V) PCB traces which are a shock hazard. Only access this board if you know what you are doing. It may also void your warranty.

The underside of the controller board. The large chip is the MCU (Renesas 6433662B94H). The triacs near the connector at the bottom of the photo are a 4 Amp STMicroelectronics T4-0560 (large triac on left) and 5 smaller triacs: Z7SY424 (also ST Microelectronics, but sorry can't find the datasheet). The triacs are located on the neutral (N) side of the load so the inputs to these triacs float at 230V AC when off.

I don't know what the 8 pin IC to the left of the MCU is – I'm guessing an EEPROM. The microswitch is the "Delayed Start" front panel button. The connector at the top-right connects the LEDs and switches on the left side of the dishwasher's front panel. The large traces at the bottom left provide power for the water heater.

This photo is the top side of the controller board. Visible are: black relay for heater on left. Buzzer (black disc in the center). The white wire pair connecting to the board at the bottom of the photo is (I believe) the water intake flow meter. The black wire pair I guess to be a temperature sensor. The blue component just above the barcode label is a combined crystal/capacitor for the MCU clock. Misc components to the left of the board are a mains to DC power supply for the low voltage electronics.

The 4 pin header to the right of the buzzer seems to be a diagnostics port. Pins on this header from left to right connect to the MCU's NMI, RXD, TXD. The last pin I'm not sure about. I thought ground would be the obvious choice, but I was seeing -5V on RXD and TXD relative to this pin. Maybe it's a +5V. This needs to be investigated further another time.

This is a close up shot of the MCU. The first digit is a '6' is difficult to see in this photo. The marking is 6433662B94H.

This is what I could figure from the mains voltage (230V AC) connector on the controller board:

White, Gray and Brown are sense wires (MCU senses presence of 230V AC or not).  Blue,  Red/Blue, Black, Violet, Red and Cyan drive a load (motor or actuator).

OrangeProvides 230V AC power to the board.
WhiteSense: ? water pressure -- it can sense if wash arm is obstructed
GraySense: Salt related ?
BrownSense: float switch on drip tray – triggered in the event of a leak
BlueWash pump motor
Red/BlueLower wash arm valve
BlackDrain pump
VoiletSalt related?
RedWater intake valve
CyanDetergent release door

Other information:

My 'howto' on unsticking the FDW60 drain pump:

Interesting dishwasher application note from Renesas:

Excellent dishwasher hack here ("Arduino Controlled Dishwasher"):

Please add any additional information or corrections in the comments below. Thanks!


Neil said...

This was very useful. Thank you.

Our dishwasder had 'ECO' & 'FAST' LEDs as a fault code. Cleaning the drain pump did nothing. The pump was removed from the appliance and tested by (applying 230V). It worked fine. The fault was traced to the relevant Drain Pump Triac. These are SOT-223 package Z01 series Triacs and an NXP (Philips) Semiconductors Z0103MN135 (£0.16p!) from Farnell, worked perfectly. No doubt most repair organisations would have wanted huge amounts of money to replace the whole system board!

Anonymous said...


Thanks for taking the time to post this article.

I have a 5yr old FDW80, which has the same controller board.

It developed a clicking/rattling noise coming from the lower wash arm valve. The noise continued even with the dishwasher switched off via the front panel!

This turned out to be a faulty triac on the controller leaking 20V or so onto the valve motor so it was turning non-stop. The lower voltage made it rattle, which was probably a good thing as it helped identify the fault.

Anyhow I replaced the faulty triac and it fixed the problem.

There are 6 triacs in total. The T4 device is the larger of the bunch and the Z9M device is closest to the board edge. So from left-to-right details are as follows:

1 x T405600B (4A, 600V, Igt=5mA) marking="T40560"
4 x Z0107SN (1A, 700V, Igt=5mA) marking="Z7S"
1 x Z0109MN (1A, 600V, Igt=10mA) marking="Z9M"

Z01 datasheet here:
T405 datasheet here:

More details and photos in this thread:

Cheers! :)

Malcolmf said...

All very useful, thanks!
I have checked the drain pump and it appears to be OK after cleaning out some fragments of china, but it seems the blockage may have blown the controller. I can get a new one for £75, but can't work out how to get at it. I presume it's in the door?

jdesbonnet said...

Yes, main controller is in the door near the top-left (just right of the power switch). Be careful if you go in there... part of the board carries live voltage so make sure you know what you are doing. BTW: Hotpoint do (or did least year) a fixed price repair for near the amount you mentioned... so it might be as cheap to get one of their techs to do the repair.

jdesbonnet said...

Sorry, got that mixed up. Top-right of the door, just left of the power switch.

Malcolmf said...

Crikey, that was quick! Thanks for coming back.
Never thought of Hotpoint themselves, I looked it up and it's from £79.99 so definitely worth a ring.
Shame though, it's been fun dismantling the machine, not so much doing the washing up though. Now if only my soldering was up to it.....

dovim said...

hi Guys
I have a hotpoint FWD60, the bottom spray arm is not rotating. Pressure of water is fine. Cannot find any visable blockages which could cause this. Any suggests would be great.

Marcel Majzlan said...

Thanks for pictures, usefull. I wash today, just without heater with warm water :).
white - door closed
grey - up to level water

giovanni donati said...

Fantastic! Thanks, my indesit DW has the same exact board (150€ to replace), I am trying to set up a raspberry pi controller instead, but I have an hard time in figuring out how the power is delivered to the different parts..

Joe Desbonnet said...

Most of the main dishwasher parts operate at mains voltage (pump, detergent door actuator, etc). You could drive with suitable mains relay board for Pi (or any generic relay board). Before you embark on this you'd want to study a working dish washer and make plots of the when various things happen... there are may decades of research gone into dishwashing cycles... if you start from scratch you may not end up with the cleanest dishes (or excessive use of power/water etc). It would be a fascinating project... Be very careful: you'll be working with mains voltage levels: shock hazard.

ale said...

thank you for everything.
my dishwasher is an ARISTON type LI420 (45cm) have the same board,
my symptom the discharge pump doesn't work.
the triac (pump discharge drive) was damaged give out 190vac not 220v.
have changed triac Z0107 and now is.. for now is ok ;)